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A Scents of History

09/22/2011 | Marni Golden

How architect Carlos Huber captures fleeting moments of history inside a simple bottle.

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20110921_WE017_Perfume1_604x340

Last weekend I had some time to kill and found myself perusing a giant wall of fragrances at a nearby Sephora when I spotted two alarming additions. Staring right back at me were women's fragrances by none other than Justin Bieber and Kat Von D, amongst countless other celebrity-endorsed perfumes. I've learned to accept - even embrace - that we live in a celebrity-obsessed culture, but I was a little saddened by the idea of fragrance, originally a poetic and romantic concept, potentially descending into "Dancing with the Stars" territory. Don't get me wrong, I adore The Biebs, US Weekly and Brooke Burke, but I was thrilled to learn that architect Carlos Huber, Nate's boyfriend and my so-called brother-in-law, was launching his premiere fragrance collection Arquiste the next day(!) at Barneys.

With a degree in Historic Preservation from Columbia University, Mexico City-born Huber sought to create a line of fragrances inspired by history, in six unisex scents (detailed below). Upon learning the news of the official launch, I immediately ran to the basement at Barneys where I had the chance to sit down with Carlos and pick his insanely detailed brain. When our chat concluded I thanked him for putting out a fragrance that was classic, timeless and authentic. Its bottle may not feature sequins, rhinestones or the name of a celeb du jour, but it will surely light up any room.

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Marni Golden: What inspired and influenced you to create Arquiste?
Carlos Huber: I always had a passion for perfume; through my mentorship with two master perfumers, I was able to combine it with my own career as a preservationist and architect.

MG: What was that journey like for you – from conception to inception?
CH: To turn an experimental project like this into a full-fledged product is a long, rocky process that requires a lot of fine-tuning. And I call it a ‘product’ with the utmost respect, because the work that goes into a piece of work that you can share, trust and be proud of is huge. I’ve learned a lot and I can’t wait for what comes next.

MG: What makes Arquiste stand out amongst the very competitive and populated fragrance marketplace?
CH: I wanted to share something that has depth, fantasy and authenticity. To connect with the past, with history and to infuse our life with a real dose of poetry. The fragrances are incredible wearable, and modern, but retain a classical thread to them. I believe in them as masterpieces from Rodrigo Flores-Roux and Yann Vasnier.

MG: Did you ever have doubts along the way, and if so, how did you overcome them?
CH: Of course! ‘With a little help of my friends’. Life is not a stand-alone battle, we are here to help and guide each other.

MG: Who were your biggest supporters, and/or what were your main sources of encouragement?
CH: My family, Nate of course, my friends. I am really lucky…

MG: My personal favorite scent is Infanta en flor – which is your favorite for you and for Nate? And why?
CH: He loves Fleur de Louis and Flor y Canto and is faithful to them. I like different ones for different moments, but reach out for Fleur de Louis and Anima Dulcis more often, I like the contrast between wearing one for day and one for evening.

MG: What makes Arquiste such a special gift or purchase?
CH: They are all based on real stories that inspire and bring fantasy and poetry to our life.

MG: Does this mean I'm set with birthday presents for life (wink wink)?
CH: Well, you do wear them well!....We’ll talk...

MG: What's the most important lesson you've learned from this experience?
CH: To keep calm, cool and trust myself.

20110921_WE017_Perfume3_604x340

More info on the scents of Arquiste below:

Fleur de Louis (June, 1660: “Louis XIV’s first meeting with his young Spanish bride under a newly assembled pavilion of pine and cedarwood on the French-Spanish border”) ~ a woody floral with orange blossom, orris and white cedarwood.

Infanta En Flor (June, 1660: “designed to symbolize Maria Teresa, the Infanta of Spain, who was offered to Louis XIV in exchange for peace”) ~ a floral musky amber with orange blossom, leather, citrus and immortelle.

Anima Dulcis (November, 1965 [sic]: “interprets the interior of the Royal Convent of Jesus Maria, in Mexico City, where nuns once prepared spiced chocolate with a mysterious blend of chilies and spices”) ~ a gourmand.

Flor Y Canto (August, 1400: “celebrates the feeling and smells of an Aztec festival”) ~ a white floral with tuberose, magnolia, plumeria and marigold.

L’Etrog (October, 1175: “set in Calabria, Italy and inspired by the festival of Sukkot”) — a citrus chypre with citron, palm leaves, willow branches, myrtle and dates.

Aleksandr (January, 1837: “inspired by a frigid winter afternoon in St. Petersburg, Russia”) — with neroli, fir balsam, Russian leather and ambrette.

The Arquiste line is currently sold at Barneys, available in 50 ml ($165-175).

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